La Guajira

The Guajira Desert, also known as La Guajira, is located in northern Colombia and extends into Venezuela. It is characterized by its arid landscapes, sandy dunes, and unique ecosystem adapted to desert conditions. This region is inhabited predominantly by the indigenous Wayuu people, who have traditionally lived off the land through herding, fishing, and crafting.

Motorcycle travel in the Guajira Desert plays a significant role in exploring its remote and rugged terrain. The desert’s vast expanses and challenging off-road conditions make it a thrilling destination for adventure riders seeking to experience untouched wilderness and cultural immersion. Motorcycles provide a practical means of navigating the sandy tracks and narrow paths that crisscross the desert, offering riders an up-close encounter with its stark beauty and the traditional Wayuu way of life.

Overall, motorcycle travel in the Guajira Desert offers adventurers a unique blend of adrenaline-fueled exploration, cultural discovery, and environmental appreciation in one of Colombia’s most remote and captivating regions.

Source: Wikipedia

The Pensinsula

It’s a parched, desert landscape of sand dunes and baked earth, crisscrossed by drug traffickers and contraband smugglers, but mostly forgotten by everyone else.

The native people who inhabit the Guajira, the Wayuu, live in conditions so precarious that their very name has become a kind of shorthand in Colombia for extreme poverty. They herd goats and survive on government handouts or the pocket change of the traffickers who use the peninsula as a Caribbean launchpad. Washington Post

The Wayuu

The Wayuu people live in family clans scattered across the vast, arid landscape of the Guajira Desert, each clan occupying simple huts that blend with the sparse surroundings.

To survive, they tend to their herds of donkeys and goats, fish for seafood along the coast, and skillfully craft colorful handmade bags that they sell to tourists as cherished souvenirs. Some also rely on government aid or the occasional generosity of smugglers who traverse the peninsula.

Encounters with local children along the paths are common, where they may block the way with bicycle chains or makeshift barriers, asking for a small toll of coins, candies, or even just a sip of water. These interactions reflect their resilience and resourcefulness in making ends meet in a harsh and remote environment.

When to travel

The best time to travel the Guajira Desert in Colombia by motorcycle is during the dry season, which typically spans from December to March. This period offers more stable weather conditions with minimal rainfall and lower humidity levels, creating ideal riding conditions. The temperatures are generally milder during these months, making it more comfortable to explore the desert landscapes and interact with the local Wayuu communities.

Safety

Traffic is virtually non-existent in the Guajira Desert. Be prepared for potential flat tires and have experience riding off-road and navigating deep sand.

Ensure you carry enough gasoline for the round trip (approximately 16 liters should suffice). While finding a traditional gas station is challenging in the Guajira Desert, it’s not impossible; locals often sell gasoline from their homes.

It’s essential to bring ample water (at least 3 liters) due to the scorching temperatures of La Guajira. Surprisingly, you may come across makeshift bars in remote areas offering cold refreshments, but shade is scarce in this desert region.

Gasoline

Finding gasoline in the Guajira Desert can be challenging due to its remote and sparsely populated nature. Here are a few tips on where you might find gasoline:

1. Riohacha: As the largest city in the region and a common base for exploring the Guajira Desert, Riohacha has more reliable access to gasoline. Stock up on fuel here before heading into more remote areas.

2. Uribia: Known as the indigenous capital of Colombia, Uribia is another potential place to find gasoline. It serves as a hub for local Wayuu communities and may have small stores or informal vendors selling fuel.

3. Wayuu Settlements: In some remote Wayuu settlements scattered throughout the desert, locals may sell gasoline from makeshift stations or containers. This option should be approached with caution as the quality of the gasoline might not be the best.

4. Plan Ahead: Due to the scarcity of gas stations in the area, it’s crucial to plan your route and estimate fuel consumption carefully. Carry extra fuel in portable containers if possible to extend your range.

5. Local Advice: When in doubt, seek advice from locals or other travelers who have recently visited the area. They may have valuable insights or updates on current gasoline availability.

Remember, traveling through the Guajira Desert requires thorough preparation, including ensuring you have enough fuel to reach your destination and return safely to a more populated area where gasoline is readily available.

The Experience

Driving through La Guajira on a motorcycle is a journey into a forgotten world where slow-paced tourism is beginning to take hold. Riohacha serves as a bustling basecamp for excursions into this unique peninsula, which seems to exist in a realm all its own—neither quite Colombia nor the Caribbean, but evoking an atmosphere reminiscent of Africa.

For an authentic experience, plan to spend 2 to 4 days exploring La Guajira, with the iconic Punta Gallinas lighthouse as your ultimate destination. This adventure is tailor-made for enthusiasts of off-road riding, offering rugged terrain and stunning desert landscapes that stretch to the horizon.

It’s important to note that infrastructure in La Guajira is minimal, with Wayuu huts scattered sparsely amidst the brushwood serving as the primary form of accommodation and shelter. However, near Punta Gallinas, simple lodgings can be found where travelers can rest and recharge. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit nearby flamingo colonies and explore the pristine beaches that frame Laguna Punta Aguja on both sides—an unforgettable experience in this remote corner of Colombia.

 

Where to Sleep

Cabo de la Vela

Cabo de la Vela offers a variety of straightforward accommodations, ranging from rustic beachfront huts to basic guesthouses. When choosing where to stay, take your time to select the option that best suits your preferences and budget, ensuring a comfortable and enjoyable stay amidst the desert landscapes and coastal beauty of this unique destination.

Punta Gallinas

Hospedaje and Restaurante Luzmila offers a refreshingly simple yet fully accommodating experience for weary travelers seeking respite after an adventurous ride. Located in a tranquil setting, this establishment provides all the essentials you need, including freshly caught seafood and refreshing cold drinks to rejuvenate your spirits.

Guests can opt for one of their basic, clean rooms or enjoy a rustic experience by sleeping in a comfortable hammock under a shaded roof. The ambiance is cozy and inviting, perfect for unwinding after exploring the surrounding landscapes.

Whether you’re stopping over for a night or using it as a base for further exploration, Hospedaje and Restaurante Luzmila promises a genuine and relaxing stay amidst the natural beauty of its surroundings.

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